1st class!

Windmill

Trains

Delayed!

Hi Ilonka!

Anniversary!

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Well unfortunately off to a very late start today. But it is not our fault. As we have learned, Barceloneta is an area mostly for the young and the beach bums. When we first arrived, what looked to be college age kids were renting a few apartments in our building and they did party pretty hard our first night. That kept Karen up (not me, I slept right through it). Well last night was the return of the partiers. A completely different crop. Last weekend were North Americans. Our new neighbors, two girls residing across the hall, sound like Euros. Well they had friends over last night and were playing the music loud and talking even louder. They did so until past 2 am. Part of the problem is the construction of the building. While it is an older building, sound just seems carry really effectively through the walls and floors of the building, so even moderate sounds carry.

Anyway, with a poor night of sleep, we got off to a slow start. Really our itinerary today is light. We want to purchase souvenirs to take home to family. We also want to walk around the areas of the old city that we have so enjoyed. There are also some monuments that we have walked by, but not really focused on. One of them is the Post Office, a beautiful old building with a spectacular stain glass ceiling. You can just walk in and take a look around. No charge. As we walk out, we find a demonstration or politically rally taking shape. Not really sure what for, but we have decided to mosey on before it gets going.

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As I consult the walking map in my tour book, I realize that are some other structures we missed or failed to appreciate. Here is one we walked right by on Avenue Parrallel last Sunday when searching for the furnicular to Montjuic. These are the city walls from medieval times. A long stretch of wall that runs some 200 meters or so up Avenue Parallel. This cool doorway (not accessible unfortunately) is part of the structure.

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From the wall, we made our way to another monument we had missed, the Church of Sant Paul de Camp. This incredibly old structure dates to the 900 hunderds, though it is believe it has been the site of churches since the 7th century. It is a really cool building and well worth the 2 euro to get in. It is still a working monastery. We were the only tourists in there, though we happened across a priest meditating in the grotto and we could here other monks practicing their chanting (we could hear, but could not see them).

From there we when in search of the Palau Guell. This is another Gaudi structure. He designed for his patron Count Guell, the guy who put up the money for Parc Guell. Unfortunately, the structure is undergoing extensive restoration and we could not get in there, nor really view the outside as it is covered in scaffolding.

Right across from Palau Guell, we did find a couple of souvenir shops. The second proved the best. The sales woman, Sarah, was India and spoke excellent English. Turns out she has been in Barcelona only 5 months. But she is fluent in Spanish and doing well. We purchased caps, t-shirts, key chains and the like and headed on our way.

Ready for a sit down, we have finally stopped at one of the cafes on Las Ramblas. This is great people watching here. We have also realized that right across the street from us is the opening to Placa Reial, our favorite square Barcelona. Each time there, we had entered from Ferran street. Our next goal is to find a tapas cookbook and a Gaudi calendar as souvenir gifts.

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We purchased the cookbook and calendar from one of the street stands on Las Ramblas and now have headed back into St. Joseph’s market. I would like to get a sandwich from one of the stands. We shared a couple of ham croquettes at the Las Ramblas café, but I am still hungry. Lot’s of choices. Here we find something interesting, the crabs are still quite active and want to get away.

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Back out on Las Ramblas, we are heading toward the leather shop we had our adventure in a couple of days back. On the way we have happened across this cage full of bunnies. Karen wants to buy them all up so they do not end up in some butcher market somewhere in Barcelona. Oh well. I think they are doomed.

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We have made it to Mr. Solsona’s! This place really does exist. It was not just some sting operation. In fact, we peeked in and saw Mr. Solsona. We decided that after giving him the bums rush the other day, we would say hello and thank him for his hospitality. As he was in the middle of a fur coat sale, he did not try to sell us leather coat. He take stop for a moment to say hi. I don’t think he was quite sure if he knew we were, but we felt better about the effort.

Now Karen and I do not have to feel back about showing our faces around this address again.



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Man that water is cold! From the leather store, we caught the Metro back to Barceloneta changed into our swim suits and headed down to the beach. Rather then spend 5 euros per chair, we made ourselves comfortable in one of the beachside cafes and sipped a cold beverage while soaking up the sun and the atmosphere. At least for me, this was a better value for the money! Before leaving, we have to get our feet wet in the Mediterranean. Man is that water cold! It is Lake Michigan cold.

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Walking home we come upon the demolition site. And for the first time, we see actual demolition work going on. They have fenced off the whole area. They have guards and guard dogs patrolling the perimeter and now they have the debris removal equipment in full operation. What excitement.

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La Gavina Restaurant. Our choice for our Anniversary dinner. This is the pier restaurant that always seemed the most crowded, at lunch and dinner. So figured it had to be good. We had stopped by earlier to make reservations, but they were not taking them as they had a big group coming in. However, the hostess sort of hinted that if we came by around 8pm or so, she could probably get us a table. That is indeed what we have done and we are now seated in the restaurant, under this beautiful portico.

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Bellisimo! Karen brought out here best dress (brand new of course) for the occasion.

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Cheers! Five years of wedded bliss. Congrats to us. We are drinking our Cave wine Sangria. It is made with Catalonia’s version of Champagne, Cave. It too is a sparkling wine and a specialty of the region. We deserve the best tonight, I think!

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Black rice paella. I had it the first night and thought it excellent. But here at La Gavina, the dish is out of this world. The best paella I have ever had, bar none. The seafood is exceptional and the sauce, will there, is not saucy at all. Rather the sauce is soaked up by the rice and seafood. More like a marinade, in a way, that a sauce. Just outstanding.

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As we leave La Gavina and our memorable Anniversary dinner, we look back at all the people enjoying the best restaurant we have been to in Barceloneta.

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Perhaps in a few years, with a little luck and a big time lottery win, we can buy a boat like this. The thing is massive. Gotta cost more to put gas in the thing for one trip than we make in a year.

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Couple of housekeeping photos here. This is the Irish pub we had a beer in. The only irish pub we visited during our stay. It is right on Passeig National and looks out upon the Marina. Though it would have been the place for a Guiness, I had the local brew instead, Estrella Damm. I have become quite a fan of this beer. It is a lager, by the way.

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The Restaurante Cerveceria El Dique. This is the place we had our first meal in Barcelona, a week ago. It also is on Passeig National and looks out upon the Marina. Does not compare to La Gavina, but was pretty good.

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The happy color, promenading down the avenue (perhaps on their way for some gelato) now reminiscing about the wonderful time they have had in Barcelona, and really not wishing leave.

Picasso, Chocolate, Tower and Beach

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Once again we set the alarm to wake us up. Since our first port of call is the Picasso Museum which does not open until 10:00, I set the alarm for 7:30.

This was also our first morning to homemade coffee. Though I did not mean too, I made the coffee really weak, so Karen liked it. I did not. We still had to stop at our corner café for a really coffee. We made our way across the boulevard and to the museum. Since we had walked past it before, we knew right where it was. We are here. We are a little early and we are in line.

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Believe it or not, we actually went through the entire Picasso Museum. Can hardly believe it myself. Our normal approach to an art museum is something like this:

“What room is the Mona Lisa in? Great, thanks. Other art? Not interested, gotta another museum to got too. Thanks.”

But the Picasso Museum is really cool. For 6 euro’s, you get to see lot’s of Picasso, from his formative years (in his early teens) right into his later years when he was creating pottery. His early work is really excellent and conventional. It was not until his 20’s that he got into the modern art thing. I have to say, while I understand the idea behind cubism, it makes for ugly paintings. But hey, that’s me.

After Picasso, we decided to walk around El Born some more. One place Karen wanted to find for sure was the Chocolate Museum. Took a little effort, but we have found it. We didn’t do the museum part, but definitely have checked out the gift shop.

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Still on our walk through El Born, we have reached Placa El Born and decided to have a respite at one of the cafes here. There are 5 of them right together that share the same area in the square for outdoor seating.

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The target of our next stop is the harbor cable car that runs from Barceloneta to Montjuic. Originally, the idea was to take it back from the Montjuic, but we never figured that part out. So we decided to visit the Barceloneta tower. We had stopped here the other night and checked on hours and on prices. It is 12 euro round trip to Montjuic, 9 if you go one way, or if you just go to the top of the tower it is 4. Since we have been to Montjuic twice and seen the city skyline from high above a few times already, we decided we would just do the tower. Turns out to have been a smart decision. You get a great view of the city and they pack the cable car with people, so unless you are lucky enough to be on the outside, you do not get much of a view. Also, we finally spied where the station on Montjuic is. It really is not up the mountain much. Any trip to there, or from there would require a bus ride to get to the top. We take once last look up to the tower here from down on the beach road.

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Ahhh! And finally the beach. After the tower, we went back to the condo to change into our swim suits. We then headed back down to the beach. This time, we walked through the neighborhood to the beach. What we found was a lot of what looked like low income housing/ projects. It is amazing that in this area so close to the water, and so full of tourists from all over Europe, that more money has not come into this district. My speculation is zoning and rent control. Could be wrong, of course. The history of Barcelona, as we have learned, is that the well off have lived away from the water. Historically, it was a very active shipping and fishing port, and perhaps this is why. I do wonder if this will change. Further up the coast, beyond the Olympic beach area, you do seeing building and definitely a better class of housing.

Before the sand, we decided to have sandwiches. We ate at one of the beach side cafes (seems like there is one every 200 meters or so in Barceloneta). I had a bacon and cheese sandwich, while Karen had mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Bother were good, but we agree mine was exceptional. Gotta try making that at home too.

Now for some sunning! Karen is styling in her new bathing suit. Very nice and also modest by Barcelona standards.

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We have been getting lot’s of sun just walking around, and we did not want to over do it at the beach, so we only stayed an hour or so. What to do next? The mall of course! Right across the marina from us is the Maremagnum mall. From the outside, it looks enormous. But it does share space with the Aquarium, the Imax and a multiplex cinema. So as it turns out, the mall is not very large. Has a variety of stores, but frankly nothing very interesting. And the professional notes that there are no anchor stores (meaning department stores to you and me). They do have a few café/ restaurants, however, and we stopped for a beverage in one of them that had a particularly great view of the marina and city skyline. This place also advertised wifi. Darn, if only I had brought my PC!

Karen poses for her coworkers so that they know, even on vacation, she is checking out the competition.

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You would think a visit to the mall would be enough, but there you would be wrong. Here Karen is entering a dress shop that is a mere 1 block our condo. Wonder what she will find in there.

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Needing more key supplies for the condo, in particular bottled water to make coffee, we headed back to the supermercat. What we discovered on this visit is that in addition to the super market, behind it, in the same building is a whole mini food market, looking much like a miniature version of the St. Catherine market we visited a couple of days ago. While visiting, Karen decides to get a cappuccino to go. This is how she got it – in a plastic cup.

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Dinner time and we decide to try our luck at one of the better looking places down at the end of the pier. Karen craved pizza, and this place looked good. Our waiter is in fact from Italy. As Karen points out, he speaks English better than just about anyone we have met from Barcelona.

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Another try at the Sangria. And this time we got it right. This place makes it the way it should be, loaded with fruits and juice from those fruits. Now Karen has a taste of what Sangria should be like, and she likes it. Her honey, let me pour you another glass!

The pizza here is also excellent, made in an authentic northern Italian style that reminds us of our Honeymoon. With our Anniversary tomorrow, this does feel like a bit like a second Honeymoon, too.

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On our way back home, we stop by once again the Bar Jaica to see if we can get in. No way. This place is packed as always. Karen poses in front, which is the closest we are going to get to this place.

Montjuic, Mila, Market and Mar

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Wishing to start our days earlier, we took the radical step of setting the alarm clock (well my cell phone) for 6:30am. As a result, we were on our way by 9am. Coffee, of course, is a significant issue, so we took a planned detour by taking the Metro Line 4 to Placa d’Urquiaona. Our itenarary was to go to Tibidobo mountain via the Line 7, which I understood we could pick up from Placa de Catalunya. I knew of a Starbucks kitty corner from the square and figured we could get coffee there. It would only require a short walk. Well, there is also a Starbucks right across the street from Placa d’Urquiaona, so voila, we had coffee in hand and were on our way.

When we got to Placa de Catalunya, I checked the Metro map above the station. Line 7 was not listed. We went to another map at another entrance to the Metro. Same thing. We made an executive decision. Though we very much wanted to see the city from the heights of Mount Tibidobo and check out the church and other structures on the summit, we were also not sure we wanted to take all the time it would require to get there. There is so much to see here, (and the longer you are here, the more you realize it) that we were dubious whether it was worth the effort. So we bagged the Tibidobo plan, and decided to go back to Montjuic and to the Olympic Stadium. We also hoped to catch the cable car back down the mountain to Barceloneta (we spied the cable car running, which it was not doing our first couple of days here).
As seasoned veterans, we knew our way. We took the red line train (L1) to University and then switched to the green line (L3) to Parallel. There we took the Furnicular up. From our wanderings on Sunday, we knew this was the level for the Stadium. So we got out of the station and headed down the hill. It was about a half mile walk. On our left was the Olympic Sports Museum. Not sure what it is in there, but nobody was going there. We decided to follow there lead. Basically next door is the stadium. I figured we would have to pay, but nope, they have one open entrance and we walked right in.

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This photo was taken for nephew Dan, because we found our way into the Olympic swimming pool. It is just down the street from the Stadium. Again, no charge. We could just walk in, to the upper level and watch the swimming. Looks like seniors and school age kids using the pool. They also have an outdoor pool. Most important for the parents of the swimmers, they do have full café’ with bar!

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After the Olympic Village, we tried to figure out where we might pick up the teleferico back to Barceloneta, but we never did. We guessed it would involve a bus ride, but really did not know to which station and could not figure it out from the maps. Rather than fret about it, we decided to catch a bus down the hill to Placa Espanya and take the Metro. We were waiting a while, at least 15 minutes, and that gave us time to read the bus route in detail. We determined that if the 50 bus came along first (61 being the other bus) it would take us all the way to Passeig de Gracia, our next port of call (so to speak). Well the 50 came first, and here we have hopped. So another small step for a traveling couple: we have mastered the Barcelona bus system!

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Our target is Casa Mila’, the Gaudi structure we postponed visiting on Monday. We have decided to walk up Rambla Catalunya, because Mr. Solsona’s leather shop is located there. We just want to see if it is still there, or if we were involved in some sting operation. Unfortunately, we seem to have missed it as the addres is Rambla Catalunya 14, and we are already in the 30’s. This is a beautiful boulevard, without the crowds of Passeig de Gracia, but with much more charm. In the pedestrian center strip we came upon these sculptures; a variety of human forms (mostly decapitated heads) which are sponsored by one of the major banks here.

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Once again we have been on the move for a couple of hours straight (well more like 3) and we are ready for sit down and something cold. Like all of Barcelona, it would seem, there is a sidewalk café every several meters on Rambla Catalunya. We have stopped at this one, La Bodetueta. Nice spot on the street, charming interior too, and the banos (sorry no photo) isn’t half bad as well.

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We made our way to Casa Mila’ and paid the 8 euro to get in. Frankly, compared to the other Gaudi structures we had seen, this one simply does not measure up. It is cool, to be sure, but just not in the same class as the others. The best part is the roof. You take an elevator up to the “attic” where there are a bunch of informative displays (you also get a head-set/ prerecorded guide). Interesting, but when you have seen all the Gaudi stuff first hand, seeing mock-ups of it does not cut it. Head to the roof. That is the cool part. Great views of the city and the best of Gaudi design too.

The routing of the tour is confusing, and we mistakenly left the roof and walked all the way down to the ground floor (a spiral staircase is the route). What we missed was the apartment. Well we were not alone. Us and a few other misfits were sent up a second elevator that took us to the apartment. While designed as a period piece, the apartment is just not that interesting. Not compared to the interior of Balto house.

However, there is a gift shop on that floor. And in that gift shop, Karen spied a wrap. That wrap (which I doubted was even for sale) became Karen’s anniversary gift! Am I complaining? No way. With that purchase, I am now off the hook. I must admit, it is a sharp item of clothing. After the transaction, Karen asked if the wrap was made in Spain. No. France. Oh well, Karen likes French stuff.

When done, we found the nearest Metro stop, Diagonal, and took the green line (L3) to the Passeig de Garcia station where we are switching to the yellow line (L4). What we have discovered is that this is a very, very long walk! Are we really in the same station?

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Not sure a camera can do this justice. We are on one of the new Metro trains. They are roomy and well ventilated (e.g., air conditioned). What is most unique about them is that there are no doors between cars. I have never seen anything like this. You can look straight down the train, all the way to the first/last car. When the train takes a curve, you can watch the snake effect of each car. Really cool.

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We hoped off at Jaume stop and made our way back to St. Joseph’s market (with a couple stops at dress shops on the way). We are hoping to catch the market before the stores close.

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Mmmm. Got some fillin’ to do here. Well, though we were an hour and half earlier than the last time, a number of stands in the market had already closed up. We had the notion of getting lunch there, but every place which serves lunch (and there are a bunch) was packed. By that time, it was after 3pm and we were STARVING. The kind of starving (and tired to as we had been on the move for over 3 hours) were you can not even think straight. We first sat down at a place on Las Ramblas, but did not like the menu (like I said, we were so hungry we could not think) and were just going to order beers, but they would not let us (thank you, thank you, thank you) so we kept on moving. Karen had the good idea to seek out the Placa Reial, which we knew have several café’s. And indeed this is what we did. We found one which served sandwiches and we both ordered. I got prosciutto con queso and Karen got avocado, olive paste and cheese - a really cool looking (and tasting) sandwich, which I am going to try to make when we get home.

From there, we made our way by foot back to our hood. Tired, but not wishing to rest, we headed down to the beach and decided to go for a walk. Well we have been walking. Not really sure how far, but we got past the golden fish (right not goldfish, the golden fish – it’s a sculpture they made for the Olympic village) and well past it. We must have walked at least 2 miles from our corner of the beach and now we are making our way back.

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We are making our way back from the beach and our long walk, and are crossing the Placa in front of the church we went to on Sunday, San Miguel, and finally took a camera-phone photo of it. We are going to stop at the market to get coffee and cream, so I can make coffee in our condo in the morning.

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Karen’s first Sangria! A momentous occasion! Unfortunately, the service at this place stinks! We waited forever to place our order and then they came out with this miserable pitcher of wine and soda pop (but don’t tell Karen, ‘cause it is her first sangria). The restaurant name is Con Tipa. If you happen across it, keep on moving. The table next to us are 4 girls from Miami (2 are Brazilian, one from Honduras and the other from Venezuela) and they are not getting any attention either. In fact, no one in this restaurant seems to be getting much service. The girls have already sent back their appetizer and arevtalking about going elsewhere. A good decision.

Do I keep referring to them as “girls?” I must be getting old. One of the Brazilian women told us her life story. She has been working in marketing for over 10 years, most recently for RKR, and now wants to find a job in Spain. So, I guess they are to old to be girls.

Anyway, with any luck, we will get dinner before sun-up!

Born, Barri Gotic' and the Markets

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Well off to a slow start (again). We certainly are adapting to the new lifestyle. Still, we think it would be best to get started a little earlier than 11am! Tomorrow, we set the alarm.

We went for a stroll through the El Born district, which is part of the old city, but on the other side of the street from the Gothic Quarter. Our meanderings took us past St. Mary’s, down to the Placa El Born and right across from the old market, that is now closed. We headed up toward Placa d’Urquiaona, and ended up at St. Peter’s Church. This is a beautiful and old church, with a complete history of the Christianity. Unfortunately for us, none of the information was in English, so we really do not know what kind of great structure we happened upon. The church is not written about anywhere that I can find, so we are left to wonder.

From there, we made our way to Placa d’Urquiaona, where I reoriented myself. From there, we headed down Via Laietana and to St. Catherine’s Market. This is a new market, and does not have the size or charm of St. Joseph’s, but nonetheless, a fun place to look at the display cases and marvel at the variety of foods.















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And variety we found. Look at this marvelous example. Don’t his eyes just call out to you for help?

















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From the market we may our way to the Cathedral square. At this point, we had been on the move for a couple of hours and decided to take a beverage break. We did so here at the Estruch Café, which sits opposite main entrance to the Cathedral.


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While sitting at the Café’ a flower fluttered into Karen’s hair. Beauty finds beauty.



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Well much has happened since our last photo. We went into the Cathedral. Strangest thing, when we walked in on Saturday, no charge to enter. We walked around a bit, but we were on our way elsewhere and figured we would be back. When we walked in on Sunday into the grotto area, no charge. We took a peek, but we were on our way elsewhere and figured we be back. We walk in on Tuesday, and bam! A 5 euro charge per person! What the heck!

So, if you are going to go see the Cathedral, do it on the weekend! Little inside tip for you.

Even at 5 euro, it is worth it. The church is magnificent. Couple of really cool things are the grotto and the view from the top. The Grotto is this inside court garden area. It has swans and fully stocked pond (with goldfish) and is surrounded by religious figures. A very relaxing environment, even with a couple of hundred of your favorite tourists.

We happened up the ride to the top. Didn’t even know it was there, but just followed a couple of other tourist through a door. The ride is in an elevator, so no climbing stairs (yeah!) and in a minute or so you on the roof. The view is great of the top of the church, Gothic Quarter and the surrounding city. And no extra charge! Our euro’s working hard for us!

After the Cathedral, we figured we would see more of the Bari Gotic’ and make our way to the St. Joseph’s food market. By this time we were getting hungry, so as we made our way down Ferran street, we came up an opening to a courtyard. The courtyard turned out to be the Placa Reial. It is a large courtyard, with a giant fountain in the middle and surrounded by lamp posts designed by Gaudi. The yard is rung by cafes eager to serve you lunch. We settled on one and her Karen is digging into her meal. She got the cheese lunch, I got the salami. We both were expecting sandwiches, but in fact, the cheese/salami were cut up in small bits and served plain. With that came a slice of bread with tomato smashed across it (very good) and a salad. The salad was very salty, but the salami, cheese and bread are excellent.

Dig-in Karen!



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And you too Ralph!



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A view of the Reial Courtyard.



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“Let’s go!” says Karen. We have made it to the St. Joseph’s market. This is the most famous market in Barcelona and it is right off of Las Ramblas. It’s getting late, so we better get in there…



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No Anchovies! A beautiful display of culinary delights! There must be a half dozen or more different anchovies right here in this display case. Unfortunately, the market is starting to close up, so we are going to head out of here and come back another day, earlier.


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Well we left the food market, as so many of the shops were closing up, and headed up Las Ramblas to Placa de Catalunya. Karen spied a couple of department stores of the square and we went to investigage. Now I am no shopping maven, but I have to say the department stores are not that good. Their lay out and design left a lot to be desired. We give Barcelona the highest markets in restaurants, bars, history, culture, scenery, but not in shopping (I am, of course, drawing up the expert opinion of the person next to me).

Enjoying a cool drink on the sidewalk and watching the town go by. Now that is something they do very well here. So we decided to join them!


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Well we made our way back down Las Ramblas and rambled on through the Barri Gotic to take in more sights. We eventually reached our neighborhood and what did we find, but a demolition zone blocking us from our preferred route home. Karen thought for sure the building had collapsed. The officials on site, however, did not seem much stressed (though a crowd was milling about) and so I figured it was a planned demolition. In some way, we were both correct. Apparently this building had been vacant of tenants and a target for demolition for a long time. However, squatters had settled in. The landlord finally won the right to knock the building down. The squatters were removed (with protesters looking on) and the “wrecking ball” made the first strike. Such excitement. I have taken this picture later in the evening as we make our way back from dinner. Neither of us were hungry, so we decided to get a light dinner at a carry out place on the beach. We both at focaccia bread (basically a slice of pizza they way they make it) and a beer. With that simple meal, we finish our day.